How to Plant a Native Tree So It Thrives

Most young trees that fail in their first few years were planted too deep, not watered enough, or both.

Planting a tree the right way takes about an hour and sets it up for decades. Here is how to do it in Virginia's soils.

When to Plant

Fall is the best time to plant trees in Virginia, roughly October through November. The air is cooler, so the tree loses less water. The soil is still warm, so roots keep growing through winter before summer heat arrives. Early spring, before trees leaf out, is the second-best window. Summer planting can work, but it needs close attention to watering.

Step by Step

1. Call Virginia 811 before you dig. It's free and required by law. Buried gas, power and cable lines are marked within a few business days.
2. Find the root flare. The flare is where the trunk widens as it turns into roots. Nursery trees are often potted or balled too deep, so brush away soil at the top of the root ball until you find it.
3. Dig wide, not deep. Make the hole two to three times as wide as the root ball, with sloping sides. Dig it only as deep as the root ball measures from its bottom to the root flare.
4. Remove what doesn't belong. Take the tree out of its container. For balled-and-burlapped trees, remove twine and at least the top part of the burlap and wire basket once the tree is in the hole.
5. Fix circling roots. Tease apart roots that wrap around the root ball, or make a few shallow vertical cuts on the outside. Left alone, circling roots can choke the trunk years later.
6. Set the tree on firm soil. The root ball should rest on undisturbed ground so it doesn't sink. The root flare should sit at or just above the surrounding grade.
7. Backfill with the soil you dug out. Skip the compost and potting mix in the hole. Break up clods, fill in around the root ball and firm it gently with your hands, not your boots.
8. Water deeply. Soak the root ball and the backfill to settle out air pockets. Add soil if it settles.
9. Mulch. Spread 2 to 4 inches of mulch in a wide ring, keeping it a few inches away from the trunk.
10. Stake only if needed. Most trees don't need stakes. If a tree won't stand on its own in a windy spot, use loose, wide straps and remove them after one growing season.

Planting in Hampton Roads Soils

• Heavy clay or a high water table. Plant the root ball an inch or two higher than the surrounding grade and taper soil and mulch up to it. That keeps roots out of standing water.
• Sandy coastal soil. Water drains through fast, so new trees need more frequent watering the first two summers.
• Amended planting holes in clay. Filling a hole with rich soil in clay creates a "bathtub" that holds water and drowns roots. Native soil in the hole is better.

Common Planting Mistakes

• Burying the root flare. The trunk should flare at the ground, not go straight in like a fence post.
• Leaving wire baskets, twine or plastic in place.
• Fertilizing at planting. It pushes leaves at the expense of roots. Wait at least a year.
• Piling mulch against the trunk.
• Watering a little every day instead of deeply once or twice a week.
• Leaving stakes and ties on for years, where they cut into the bark.

The First Two Years

A new tree spends its first couple of seasons growing roots. Expect little top growth at first. Keep it watered through dry spells, keep the mulch ring up and keep mowers and string trimmers away from the trunk. After that, a well-planted native mostly takes care of itself.